Have you ever looked at all the cosmetics you use before leaving home? Shower gel, shampoo, cream, deodorant… I understand wanting to know what they contain and which ingredients to avoid. As Såper's formulator, I suggest starting with one distinction: a banned substance, an ingredient that triggers your allergy and one that does not match your organic preferences call for different decisions.
In this guide, we look at names such as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, PEG, Triclosan, Methylparaben, Dimethicone and BHT, in context. Keep your packaging to hand, or use the Såper INCI Scanner to help you read the list.
Ingredients to check or avoid, depending on the circumstances
This table answers the most common questions covered in this article. It is not a list of ten toxic ingredients or a recommendation to reject them all. Look at the full name, the use and the specific reason to pay attention.
| Name you may find in the INCI list | What you need to know | How to use this information when choosing |
|---|---|---|
| Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) | These are two different cleansing surfactants. They can cause irritation; concentration, formulation and contact time all matter. CIR assessment. | If a cleanser causes discomfort, stop using it and seek advice if symptoms persist. “Sulphate-free” alone does not guarantee that another product will suit you better. |
| PEG-… and PPG-…; Propylene Glycol | These names are not interchangeable: PEG and PPG identify families of derivatives; Propylene Glycol is a specific ingredient. Some ethoxylation processes can generate traces of 1,4-dioxane, an impurity that must be controlled. FDA explanation. | Seeing “PEG” does not prove that a product contains a dangerous amount of an impurity. Purity requires quality controls; you cannot calculate it from an INCI list. |
| Triclosan | A preservative with restricted uses: a maximum of 0.3% in authorised categories; it is not permitted as a preservative in mouthwashes or toothpastes intended for children under three. Regulation 2024/996. | Check the product type. This is not a general authorisation for every cosmetic. |
| Diethanolamine (DEA) | Diethanolamine falls within the ban on secondary dialkanolamines and their salts. Derivatives with longer names must be identified separately. Explanation from the European scientific committee and Annex II, entry 411, of the Cosmetics Regulation. | If the exact name Diethanolamine appears on a cosmetic marketed in the EU, consult the seller or health authority before using it. Do not extend that conclusion to every name containing “DEA”. |
| Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben and Butylparaben | These are different preservatives. The SCCS considers Methylparaben safe at up to 0.4%, expressed as acid, under the conditions assessed. Other parabens have different conditions. Opinion on Methylparaben. | Do not treat the whole family as proven endocrine disruptors. Check the specific substance and the use scenario. |
| Dimethicone and cyclic silicones such as Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) | Not all silicones are the same. D4, D5 and D6 have specific restrictions because of environmental concerns; these should not automatically be applied to Dimethicone. Regulation 2024/1328. | If your concern is environmental, check the specific compound and the applicable timetable. “Silicone” alone does not mean false hydration or that a product clogs pores. |
| Paraffinum Liquidum, Paraffin and Petrolatum | These are mineral-derived ingredients. The BfR distinguishes the highly refined oils used in cosmetics from materials of other grades; its assessment of skin application does not expect health risks under the conditions examined. BfR assessment. | You may prefer plant oils as a formulation choice. That does not automatically make a cream containing mineral oil carcinogenic. |
| BHT and BHA | These are different antioxidants. BHT has legal limits that depend on the product. For BHA, the SCCS concluded in 2026 that the skin uses studied at up to 0.07% were safe; its opinion does not cover oral care products or exposure of the lungs through inhalation. BHT legislation and BHA opinion. | Distinguish a legal condition from a scientific conclusion and check each ingredient separately. Here, BHA means the antioxidant, not the commercial abbreviation for exfoliating beta hydroxy acids. |
| Parfum, Limonene, Linalool and Citral | “Parfum” identifies a fragrance composition. Certain allergens must be declared individually and can also come from essential oils. European Commission information. | If you have a diagnosed allergy, avoid the components identified by your healthcare professional. “Parfum” does not prove the presence of phthalates or establish a hormonal risk. |
| Aluminum Chlorohydrate and other aluminium salts | These are used in antiperspirants, among other applications. The SCCS considers certain uses and concentrations safe, with specific conditions for aerosols. 2024 opinion. | You cannot attribute cancer or Alzheimer's disease to a deodorant simply because it contains an aluminium salt. Check its intended use and the applicable conditions. |
The list does not replace all the restrictions applicable to a product. To find out what is permitted in the EU, refer to the current legislation and its annexes. Scientific assessments help inform it, but a new opinion is not, on its own, a ban.
Why can't we add together the percentages in several creams?
When planning your routine, it is reasonable to wonder about using several products. What does not work is adding their percentages as though they were a single formula.
Here is a simple example: 1 gram of a cream containing an ingredient at 0.4% contains 4 milligrams of that ingredient. One gram of another cream at 0.4% adds another 4 milligrams. That is 8 milligrams in 2 grams of product, not a concentration of 0.8%. Nor does the amount applied directly equal the amount absorbed by your body.
Assessing exposure requires considering how much product you use, how often, where, whether it is rinsed off and absorption, among other factors. The SCCS assessment guidance considers aggregate exposure. It would be incorrect to claim that assessments always ignore the use of several cosmetics. Nor can we calculate your individual risk by adding percentages at home.
Which ingredients should you avoid in a deodorant?
Start with its function: a deodorant helps control odour; an antiperspirant reduces sweating. Your choice may depend on what you want and how well you tolerate the formula.
Aluminium salts are not all interchangeable, and aerosols also require consideration of inhalation. Regulation 2026/909 introduces conditions for aluminium and other ingredients, with application deadlines. It is better to consult these specific conditions than to use a blanket “toxic” label.
If you have a known fragrance allergy, also check the perfume and essential oils in your deodorant, even if it is natural. Choosing a different formula may address a real need of your skin; it does not need to rely on disease claims that have not been demonstrated for that product.
What about sunscreen?
I want to pause here: checking ingredients should not lead you to give up sun protection. UV filters are assessed individually, and their authorisation depends on the country, use and concentration.
For example, Ethylhexyl Triazone is authorised as a UV filter in the EU at up to 5%, under Annex VI of the EU Cosmetics Regulation. Its status in another market does not make it a banned ingredient in Europe.
4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor (4-MBC) is a different case: since 1 May 2026, cosmetics containing it can no longer be made available on the EU market. The ban is set out in Regulation 2024/996.
Other filters, such as Benzophenone-3 or Homosalate, have specific conditions. You can find them in our list of ingredients assessed for possible endocrine activity. If you prefer a sunscreen with mineral filters, also check its UVA and UVB protection and follow its instructions. AEMPS explains how to protect yourself from the sun.
How to use the INCI Scanner to check your cosmetic
You do not need to memorise the whole table. I suggest starting with a product you use every day:
- Find the complete ingredient list. If you need some help, I explain how to read the INCI list and its symbols.
- Photograph the label or paste the text into the Såper INCI Scanner. Check the recognised names before interpreting the result.
- Consider the product type and area of use. Shampoo is not used in the same way as a cream that stays on your skin.
- Check anything that concerns you. Look up the full name in this guide and consult its source, the brand or a healthcare professional if you are dealing with an allergy or reaction.
The scanner offers an indicative analysis based on organic cosmetics criteria. That classification does not certify a product's safety or, on its own, determine whether it contains an endocrine disruptor. Nor does it know all the concentrations or your allergy history. Its purpose is to help you understand the list and ask more specific questions.
Check my label with the Såper INCI Scanner
My approach as a formulator: informed choices
At Såper, we choose ingredients and processes that reflect our approach to organic cosmetics. I want you to understand our formulas and decide whether they suit your skin and your values. You can consult our ingredient glossary and the product pages for our organic cosmetics.
When comparing products, separate these three questions: does it comply with the regulations, is it suitable for me, and does it match my preferences? Organic certification tells you about its standard, but does not guarantee freedom from allergies. Preferring another ingredient does not make the one you have ruled out dangerous.
My advice is to look for clear information, keep the packaging if a reaction occurs and seek advice when something does not agree with your skin. Caring for your skin also means learning to listen to it, without having to distrust every unfamiliar name.
Sources and review date
Documentary review: 28 September 2026. Regulatory scope: European Union. Sources are linked beside each explanation: EU legislation, the SCCS, the European Commission, AEMPS and assessments from the BfR and CIR. The FDA reference explains a manufacturing impurity; it does not establish what is authorised in Europe.
This guide has been reviewed to distinguish legal restrictions, safety assessments and formulation preferences. Names and dates matter: consult current sources when you need to make a decision about a specific substance.
